A guide to Tunisia, made for our engagement — hope it's useful
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Elyssa & Arnaud are throwing their engagement party here — and they want you to fall in love with Tunisia while you're at it.
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"Tunisia — Europe without the fuss, the Middle East without the hassle, and the Sahara just two hours away."
Carthage, Dougga, El Jem — seriously impressive ruins, and you won't be fighting crowds to see them.
Clear water, white sand, hidden coves. It's a great stretch of coast to spend time on.
A couple of hours from the coast and you're in the Sahara. Dunes, camels, stars — genuinely unlike anything else.
The Tunisian people welcome strangers as honoured guests — just as Elyssa & Arnaud welcome you today.
Each place was personally chosen by Elyssa & Arnaud to give you the very best of Tunisia.
Blue doors, white walls, bougainvillea everywhere — Elyssa's favourite place in the world. Café des Nattes, Dar El-Annabi, the Lovers' Staircase, and a café carved into the cliff with views over the bay.
Rome's biggest rival for centuries. The ruins sit right on the coast — surprisingly quiet for a UNESCO site.
The best-preserved Roman city in Africa. Capitol, theatre, baths — all pretty much intact on a green hillside. Worth the drive.
Turquoise water, white houses, slow pace. Good place to decompress after the party.
Dunes, stars, camels. Do it at least once.
Zitouna Mosque, Souk El Attarine, Tourbet El Bey, Dar Ben Abdallah, the Kasbah — hundreds of monuments crammed into a few square kilometres.
"Elyssa grew up with the sound of the oud in narrow streets, the scent of jasmine at doorways and the taste of mint tea at dusk. She wanted to share all of that with you."
Tunisian hospitality is not a gesture — it's a philosophy. Foreigners are treated as honoured guests, and every encounter is tinged with a generosity that feels instinctive.
The cafés of Tunis are the city's living rooms. Pine-nut mint tea, the sound of oud, jasmine in the alleys — Arnaud fell in love with all of it before he even understood the language.
The culture is a palimpsest: Arab, Berber, Ottoman, French, Mediterranean — all present, all in permanent harmony for millennia.
Smoky, spicy, generous — Tunisian cuisine is a conversation between Africa, the Mediterranean, and the Orient. Elyssa & Arnaud ate all of this — and they urge you to do the same.












Elyssa & Arnaud personally selected everything they love — from Phoenician ruins to Saharan dunes.
Le Bardo · 20 min from downtown
The world's largest collection of Roman mosaics, housed in a 15th-century palace.
Check opening hours — the museum sometimes closes without notice.
Historic Centre · UNESCO
700 monuments, ancient souks, Zitouna Mosque. Wander aimlessly — the best discoveries come from getting lost.
Leave before 7 PM — the medina empties quickly after dark.
Carthage · 15 min by car
Antonine Baths, Byrsa Hill, Punic amphitheatre — the remains of a civilisation that defied Rome.
Take a taxi between sites — they're spread over several square kilometres.
20 km from Tunis · TGM or taxi
Cobalt doors, white walls, crimson bougainvillea. Visit Dar El-Annabi and finish with tea at Café des Nattes.
Elyssa's tip: go early morning before the groups arrive.
Medina · Halfaouine
Scrub, steam, black soap — a thousand-year-old purification ritual. Hammam Daoulati and Halfaouine are must-visits.
Men in the morning, women in the afternoon at most hammams.
Medina · Specialised Souks
Souk El Attarine (perfumes), Souk des Chéchias (red caps), Souk du Cuivre. Each souk is a world unto itself.
Arnaud's tip: offer half the asking price — it's expected and it's a game.
Northern suburb · 30 min
Trendy cafés, seafood restaurants facing the sea. Perfect for unwinding after the medina.
Dine in La Marsa in the evening after Sidi Bou Saïd — they're right next to each other.
Sidi Bou Saïd · Music
Moorish residence, now a centre for Arab-Andalusian music. Fragrant gardens, malouf concerts.
Check the schedule — the inner courtyard acoustics are extraordinary.
Tozeur / Douz · 6h from Tunis
Eastern Erg dunes, a night under the stars, camel rides, Star Wars sets in Matmata.
Book a local guide from Tozeur — essential for the desert.
La Goulette · 15 min from downtown
The beach closest to Tunis city centre. Lively promenade, grilled fish stalls, and an authentically local atmosphere.
Ideal at sunset — sea breeze and bambalouni vendors make it magical.
Avenue Habib Bourguiba · Downtown
Masterpiece of colonial architecture, opened in 1902. Opera, ballet, classical concerts throughout the year.
Check the programme — tickets are very affordable (~10–25 DT).
North Tunis · Public Park
Tunis's green lung. Zoo, museum of modern art, century-old umbrella pines. Where Tunisian families picnic on weekends.
Free entry — bring a picnic and join the locals.
From refined dining in an 18th-century palace to the neighbourhood spots locals fight over — every address tested and approved by Elyssa & Arnaud.
5 Rue Dar El Jeld, La Kasbah — Médina
18th-century palace, chandelier-lit courtyard, live malouf music. The absolute institution of Tunisian gastronomy — Elyssa & Arnaud dined here to celebrate their engagement.
Souk El Attarine, heart of the Medina
17th-century caravanserai. Open-air courtyard, slow-cooked lamb couscous and legendary kefta tagine.
Between El Attarine & El Balgagia souks
Direct view of Ezzitouna Mosque. Full menu at 60 DT (~€20). Immersion in historic Tunis.
145 Rue de la Kasbah, Médina Sud
Creative grandmother's recipes. Osban couscous, daily changing menu. Best value in the medina.
Seafront, Gammarth/La Marsa
Panoramic Mediterranean views, ultra-fresh seafood. The ultimate romantic address — perfect for a dinner for two facing the gulf.
Souk des Troubadours, Medina
19th-century Ottoman café. Pine nut mint tea, bambalouni, Turkish coffee. An unmissable sensory stop.
Rue de Marseille, Downtown
1930s Art Deco Franco-Tunisian bistro. Creative fusion cuisine. The go-to for Tunis's cool crowd — and Arnaud's go-to when he wants to impress.
La Marsa · Beachfront
The institution since 1970. Morning-caught grilled fish, house mechouia, Bizerte oysters in season.
Sidi Bou Saïd Square
The country's most iconic café. Pine nut mint tea, Gulf of Tunis views — Elyssa's favourite place since childhood.
6 Rue Ben Mahmoud, Medina
Unfussy Tunisian home cooking. Kefta, osban, mechoui lamb — daily specials simmered from dawn. Packed with civil servants and neighbourhood families at lunch.
La Marsa — residential quarter
Tunisian wedding-style cooking in a genteel setting. Royal couscous on Fridays, m'hamsa and slow-roasted lamb. Beloved by La Marsa families for decades.
Some things worth knowing before you land. Elyssa & Arnaud figured most of this out the hard way.
From a riad inside the medina to a seaside five-star — these are the spots Elyssa & Arnaud actually recommend.
Historic Medina · Tunis
16 UNESCO suites. Zellige, Persian rugs, hammam spa, minaret-view rooftop.
From 180€/night
View hotel →Gammarth · Seaside
Top-end luxury. Local architecture, private beach, excellent food.
From 320€/night
View hotel →Gammarth · Golf & Sea
18-hole golf, private beach, six restaurants, royal spa.
From 260€/night
View hotel →City Centre · Tunis
Outdoor pool, spa, Mediterranean restaurant, panoramic views.
From 140€/night
View hotel →Bellevue · North Tunis
Capital's institution. Pool, spa, Walima restaurant.
From 95€/night
View hotel →Carthage · Sea View
17 suites on the heights of Carthage. Gulf views, infinity pool, spa.
From 220€/night
View hotel →Port El Kantaoui · Seaside
Thalasso palace. Marine treatments, royal hammam, private beach, 5 restaurants.
From 175€/night
View hotel →Sidi Bou Saïd · Hilltop
Charming mansion suspended above the sea. The most romantic on the north coast.
From 130€/night
View hotel →Having a car makes everything easier. You can move at your own pace and get out of the city whenever you want.
International · 12 branches
~29€/day
Very competitive. Dacia Sandero Stepway — economical and sturdy.
Book →Elyssa & Arnaud put this guide together so you'd have everything you need. All you have to do is show up and enjoy it.